House of Memories

The creaking boards. The stairway rail. The irregular steps. The smell of the entryway when I first walk in the door. All the same. I cannot understand how this house remains still in time while the rest of the world changes, but yet it does.

Living in the house my Dad grew up in is surreal. This old house is filled with memories of times passed- black and white faces frozen in frames; kissing, hugging, laughing. Many of theme are gone now but these little monuments have sealed their youth. My grandpa too is now a sage, my storyteller who daily relives younger days. During breakfast I am taken away with his tales to India or England. At lunch it is Peru or the seas, and at tea time we remember together the years of this old house. My imagination runs wild and my emotions are a roller coaster. It is so easy to be delighted in an instant, and then I am suddenly tragically nostalgic: for an age I never knew. Still the British Gentleman, he calls me "Ali, my Love," and says words like 'fond' and 'adore' when he is excited. Then we just sit together in silence. Sometimes just in memory, or reading books by Faulkner or Hemingway.

The streets have changed, and the stores are different. The graffiti is is new and bright while the cobblestones are cracking on the street. Everything around has changed. The people inside the house change too, people come and go, are born and die.

But the house still remembers.

My dad and grandparents holding my cousins Pedro and Felipe

"Poor Niagra"

...As the first lady Eleanor Roosevelt put so perfectly, yes: poor Niagra. The pounding, crushing energy of the falls at Foz do Iguaçu is overwhelming. Every emotion is augmented there- awe, power, fear... White mist envelopes everything, and as you walk closer to the falls, so are you. The green grasses and trees glisten with water and butterflies fly up from the trail ahead. I watched as birds of all types and sizes flew in and out of the white cloud rising from the falls- soaring and floating for no reason at all but to play. Walking up to the falls and looking over the edge, a strange and foreign sensation overtakes you- and you suddenly feel the temptation to jump; to fall with the water and be enveloped in the roar.

A plaque on the path to the falls had this verse inscribed in it:

"Mightier than the thunders of many waters, mightier than the waves of the sea, the Lord on high is mighty." Psalm 93:3

This verse made me stop and wonder... many times. Looking at the raw power of the falls, and the imagining what kind of power cracked the earth to make it- I cannot imagine anything mightier. How awesome, how mighty is He that created it?

Friends, "turkey," and a long way from home.

Pontal do Sul.
This place has come to mean so many things to three americanas that were privileged enough to call this small town home for a month. It was a place of sun, sand, waves and music; a place to dance, to create, to fall in love and discover a new passion for life and learning. The latter was true for me.

In Pontal I met some of the most incredible people of mylife. Selfless. Intelligent. Inspiring. Free. And there was really nothing more perfect to end it with, than our very own Thanksgiving dinner. Starting as a small dinner between Lucy, Camila and myself, the idea soon grew to include more of our friends and new “family” of Pontal.

This too marked a certain passage for me- hosting my first Thanksgiving. Lucy and I quickly set to work on a menu- Turkey was an unfortunate loss in our charming beach town, but we made due with a delicious chicken, roasted with apples, onions, carrots and potatoes. This was served with two types of mashed potatoe

s, regular and garlic oregano, and two dishes of squash (sweet and salty). We also steamed some green beans to add more color to our table. I carefully laid out a picnic table in our mini courtyard, utilizing the flowering trees as a natural decoration, and taking some of the flowers to hang down over our heads. We were also able to procure some candles and a wildflower bouquet for ambiance.

Then our guests arrived, and soon it really did feel like Thanksgiving day. Various fragrances wafted through the air from the kitchen, glasses clinked as toasts were made, laughter and (folk) music filled the air. The only major difference of course, was portuguese.

Finally all was prepared, and we sat down to eat. Our friend Gabriel quickly assumed the role of cutting the chicken, which Camila insisted we still call the Turkey. I stood and stumbled through a small speech about what meaning of Thanksgiving mean to us three 'americanas' and what meeting them had meant to us. I have never been one with speeches, much less in my second language, and was quickly embarrassed; but Camila enthusiastically took up my slack and made a toast- to Dolphins no less!

With that kind of a kick off, we tucked in. The Brazilians were blown away by Lucy's stuffing, and were equally impressed with our two versions of squash. Since it is not usual to have a heavy dinner in Brazil, I was fully expecting our guests to eat small portions. I was totally blown away then when they went in for seconds, then thirds, until some were so full they were falling asleep at the table (another Thanksgiving tradition- I explained)!!

But Thanksgiving is far from over when the turkey is cleaned. Hot from the oven, we presented the ultimate American tradition: the Apple Pie. Making everything from scratch and improvising a pie dish and spatula, we served it the only way it is edible- with vanilla icecream. One of our friends, Mattheus, had been a student in the U.S. several years ago, and when he got is slice of pie- he just sat and stared at it. He said it was his secondfavorite food (after cheesecake) and was just too excited to be eating it again.

Camila is prending to be Anna-Maria Braga (Brazilian Oprah) here. According to her, Anna-Maria goes under the table when she eats food on her show (?????). ...I have a feeling that I am really missing something here- but anyway, it is hilarious!

It was a perfect evening of stories, jokes, and bloated stomachs. Despite the fact that I couldn't avoid dishes this year, it was the most memorable Thanksgiving yet. This place, for as short of a time as it was, became my home; and these people- my family. I will never forget them, and will daily live out the lessons they taught me. This small little beach town will always have a place in my heart.

Laboratório de Ecologia e Conservação do Mamíferos e Tortarugas Marinhas

Our Lab: Laboratory of Ecology and Conservation for Marine Mammals and Sea Turtles.

From left: Lucy, Mattheus, Camila, Me, Ronaldo

Front: Glecie

I love these people.

Brasilia

Brasília.

Capital of Brazil.

The feel of Brasília is one that is extremely difficult to describe. Vast open spaces of fields or concrete, low cement buildings and short stubby trees, buildings like UFO's or communist resident blocks... I really felt like I was in the Twilight Zone. The city was built in 1956 (and it is obvious) and planned by urban planner Lúcio Costa and architect Oscar Niemeyer. The City is designed in specific sectors: Hotel, residential, business... etc. This makes it very difficult to get around without a car, not that you would want to anyway becauseof the incredible heat. Brasília is located in the interior of Brazil, and the local ecosystem is the Cerrado, a rapidly disappearing biome. The Cerrado has grown to adapt to the intense heat, wind, and fires. This is apparent in the short scrubby plants and trees, with thick and spongy bark. The herbaceous flora are stunning: bright colorful flowers grow everywhere and are especially evident in areas where there was a recent burn. The thunderstorm we experienced during our stay was the break of an almost 70 day (I think) record without rain. Incredible fires had been raging through the land and burned herds of cattle. Fire management is a must here. We also got a private meeting at The Nature Conservancy and a great presentation on their activities and projects. My favorite day was when we got to visit (briefly) the University of Brasília. I really love college settings- watching the student activities and interactions showed me how alike students are. We like to play games and jokes, eat out on the lawn, give protests and support causes. Walking through campus, I felt so at home.

Excited biology student visits The Nature Conservancy

The military building of Brasília (U.S. Pentagon equivalent). Across the street was a park that represented the various ecosystems and resources of Brazil.

First church built in Brasília, designed by Oscar Niemeyer.

The interior of the church is painted with bright colors and various shapes such as flowers and kites. It was so beautiful and peaceful, many of us took some quiet time for reflection and prayer.

Universidade do Brasília

Freshman initiation in the department of Engineering Physics. I got this information talking to some very grateful freshman in Environmental Engineering. They seemed pleased they picked the a different major than these unlucky boys.

Some posters supporting various events and causes. One of these below is about hazing.... Ironic.

Brazilian parliament- also fondly dubbed by the locals as the contact lenses!

Flags: Brazilian flag followed by the district of Brasília, then Rio de Janeiro!

Huge bridge- Our driver took us over it 3 times in a row just to make sure we knew this.

View from my bedroom- The lovely Fantasy Motel! Complete with some great hourly rates. Yes: our neighborhood was super shady.

The beautiful lights show by the Parliament square. Complete with epic music and a nice refreshing mist to cover the crowd.

The Day that Brasíla Trembled

Oh yes, we lived through an earthquake. Our driver called us in the middle of the night to tell us not to panic when we felt the aftershock- just leave the hotel quietly and quickly. Luckily it never came to that.

Holy Cabeça!

The clue-less interns...



Cabeça!!!!
I turn around from sorting skin tissue samples in the sink to see my mentor, Camila, holding a large frozen plastic bag triumphantly above her head- and she is absolutely delighted. “Cabeça!” she yells again, before passing it on to another student and excitedly talks in rapid Portuguese. In the lab, we were cleaning out the tissue samples freezer. A giant, horizontal freezer filled with samples of fat, liver, kidneys, skin, hair, muscles, eggs, placenta, fins and calfs (filhotes). We have been working all morning sorting these frozen samples into buckets and bags on the floor, and as we reach the depths of the freezer, treasures are becoming unearthed. Finding dolphin and turtle heads are just some of them.


Tissue samples all on the floor. Reaching the depths of the freezer.



I am only just beginning to understand the passion that Camila has for dolphins and sea turtles. Seeing this incredibly young and beautiful woman getting her hands and lab coat covered in thawing blood and fat, but smiling and laughing as she digs through rank tissues, I am truly inspired. Not to own a collection of tissue samples in my freezer, but to really find a job that I love and am passionate about. Today I sat in on a lab meeting she held to discuss some data discrepancies, but it ended up being one of the most inspirational talks I have ever heard. Camila is a woman that is easy to smile and laugh with you, loves a joke and tricks. But as easy it is for her to smile, it is just as easy for her eyes to flash with fire, and her voice get husky with passion. Sitting in a room full of undergraduates, we were all held spell-bound as she talked about her experiences as a student, and now a professor. She would smack her fist repeatedly against the desk- saying that now is the time to make a difference, now is the time for a dream and to have a passion for your work. "Se voçe não tem um sonho, não faz nada! (If you don't have a dream, you will do nothing!)".
Now I understand the drive behind the students in my lab. They go in every day and open rancid and decaying animals, combat flies and maggots, walk or bike for miles on the beach at 6 am in the morning to find specimens or save a stranded animal. They work weekends, sometimes all day, and many have started collecting their own samples and tissues to start their post-grad studies. Camila is the driving force, pushing everyone to work, but most importantly; pulling out the passion that fuels it. What I am especially impressed with is how much she focuses on connecting the work with conservation. In the U.S., sometimes I feel that the purpose can fall through the cracks. But here at CEM, the goal is always there, on t-shirts, posters, stickers, notebooks... Keep the ocean blue, save the sea, save the sea turtles, protect the dolphins, protect the birds...
Now, I really do believe in the future of Brazil.

Me, Lu, Lucy, and Camila

Marine Vocab 101

Tartarugas marinhas- Sea Turtles
Carapaça- Carapace
Plastrão- pectoral plates
Carcaça- Carcass

Caranguejo- Crab
Água-viva- Jellyfish
Lula- Squid
Povo- Octopus

Ameaçar- to be threatened

Espécie- Specie
Cetáceos- Cetaceans
Golfinho- Dolphin
Baleia- Whale
Focinho- Snout
Rostro- Snout
Filhote- Calf
Fusiforme- Streamline body
Umbigo- Belly button
Estômago- Stomach
Gordura- Fat
Fígudo- Liver
Rins- Kidneys
Laringe- Larynx
Músculo- Muscles

Presa- Prey
Encalhe- Stranded/beached

First person to memorize all words get a sweet postcard from me!

Loose Seal!!

Slowly getting over the pain of losing all my music, and not being in the U.S. for the best holiday ever: Halloween....

Here are some pictures:

Pontal do Sul: the not-always-

so-sunny beach town. On our first trip here (as a group) we did beach walks for stranded animals (but only found dead ones), wildlife rehabilitation, and beach sampling for benthic organisms.

(Above) a. The monotone beach, sky, and water appear to stretch on endlessly with a twilight zone feeling of hopelessness. b. The carcass of a Frigatebird is tossed about in the shallow waves. c. A sea lion has already been picked clean, with some blubbery flesh remaining.

Lucy: always the first one to get her hands on the dead things.... Also a ruined fishing

net with barnacles.

Animal wildlife rehabilitation includes feeding the Brown Boobies and the greedy Penguins!

Blind Sea Lion with a taste for Mammal blood....

Beach Sampling: taking sand samples to bring back to the lab.

Lucy, again showing her expertise with field equipment, is calculating

the beach incline.

This dog was named Chang-li.

So Cute.

We finished out our week in Pontal with a bang of course:

Biking, motorcycles, swimming, futebol and caiparinhas all on the beach.

So ended our group experience in Pontal.

But for myself, Lucy and Courtney, we get to call this beautiful place home- thank God the sun decided to shine for us!